Sunday, October 04, 2020

Sikkim - Pelling, Namchi

Sikkim is a state in Union of India which we hear from time to time being one of the clean, green and civilized states. Recently it acquired fame for becoming a 100% organic state. India has a sprawling North East which comprised of 7 states but Sikkim is not part of North East India. Sikkim is just above West Bengal and considered a niche, beautiful, himalayan abode and that is what it turned out when we visited it in summer of 2019. I was very keen to visit it for quite some time along with Darjeeling which is a well-know British era hill station. This time instead of booking everything myself, we went via Kalpadeep travels which is a Kolkata based group. The itinerary for 2 weeks included, Pelling, Gangtok, North Sikkim in Sikkim and Darjeeling. Sikkim along with Darjeeling is a standard itinerary. 

To go to Sikkim or Darjeeling, Bagdogra or Siliguri airport is the closest. From Pune, the only option we had was to fly to Delhi and then to Bagdogra both close to 2 hour flights. In Delhi, we had to change the terminals from Terminal 3 to Terminal 2 by getting onto a bus which was a bit inconvenient. Anyhow, we were glad to land at Bagdogra and while landing watching the greenery on the ground. 

Our pickup for Sikkim was on the next day, so for that day we stayed in Siliguri at hotel Saffron Crest. While wife and kid rested I explored the area around a bit. The day was just before Lok Sabha polling day at Siliguri. Siliguri along with Jalpaiguri is gateway and hub of transport and trade in this region. The sites around were familiar like any other town around the main road, shops, buildings, alleys and chaotic traffic and all. Had Momos and sugarcane juice roadside. Noticed that there were plenty of lottery stalls around.

Next day we started at 5:30AM from hotel towards Pelling. We immediately hit a dense forest which is part of Mahananda Wild life Sanctuary. Then we drive along Teesta river, then cross over to Sikkim and drive west towards Pelling. 
On the way to Sikkim
On the way to Sikkim

The road is treacherous but views are great. We reach Pelling at our hotel by 10am. After depositing luggage at the hotel, we were ready for our day tour of Pelling. Pelling is known for its clear views of Kanchenjunga range. By this time it was a bit cloudy over the snow-clad mountains.

First up was Rimbi waterfall & Orange garden on the same river. The waterfall was decent looking. The Organge garden had ofcourse local variety of orange laden trees, a small restaurant and opportunity to step into shallow Rimbi river and tip-toe on the rocks. The place was decent to hang around and bathe in the sunlight and get cold feet in the water.
Rimbi Waterfall
Rimbi river & orange garden

Getting cold feet in Rimbi

Oranges

After that we went to Khechopalari Lake which is a sacred lake worshipped by local people. There is a small temple where the prayers were being said and prayer flags all around. The lake has plenty of fishes. There is a a wooden platform constructed to feed the fishes which is the main attraction. The fish food was being sold on the shops. Hundreds of plump, well-fed fishes turned up to catch the feed being thrown and create lot of splash. There is a view point which one has to climb from where whole lake is visible. It took around 15 minutes to climb and gave panaromic view of the lake. The remoteness of this place and greenery all around makes it special. 
Pampered school of fish in Kechoropalari lake
People 'over'feeding the fish

Khechopalari lake
Sacred chorten with ritual of making stone pillars

Khechopalari lake

Fish feeding platform into the lake

We had our lunch here at a small shop manned by two women. The staple here is dal, bhat, tarkari and momos. The food was delicious. We stopped at a small monastery which had a room with huge prayer wheel. It was so huge that one had to have strength to make it turn. From there we went to Kanchenjunga watefall. Apart from waterfall, the attraction is ziplining across the waterfall, one person Rs. 100. It was quite enjoyable with operators playing along to give you photo op.
Kanchenjunga waterfall
Ziplining at Kanchenjunga fall

From here we went to Pemayangtse monastery which was the earlier place of Sikkim royals. It is one of the oldest and premier monasteries of Sikkim. The monastery is functional and there were young monks seen going about their ways. The location of monastery was beautiful. It is at hilltop and one could see Pelling town from a distance. While we were there, clouds engulfed and created a surreal view of the Pelling town. That ended the day for us. 
View on the way
Pemayangtse Monastery

Pelling from Pemayangtse

We came back to our hotel in our room which was decent. The arrangements in the dining hall and dinner were excellent and good food. We retired in our room oblivious to what is in store the next morning.

Next morning, woke up early at 5:00AM and by 5:30AM it was bright morning. Remember, this being in east sun rises quite early for Indian standard time. The last evening's view which was hazy started to clear in the morning. I was waiting to see Kanchenjanga which is visible from Pelling. Pelling is at a height and then there are are criss-crossing mountains which are at lower height which makes it appear as trough and the mountain after that. I was walking around the hotel trying to get the best view. Slowly, as the sunlight lit the valley and the buildings a little lower, the morning clouds lifted and the grand magnificient view was there. This view reminded me of similar view at Kalpa in Himachal which is around 2000km away from here. Watching the mountain sipping tea was such a pleasurable moment.

All the way to Kanchenjunga

We then left from our hotel for our itinerary today to reach Gangtok via Namchi at the end of day. We backtracked all the way to Jorethang and then took the road to Namchi. We first drove to Siddheswara Dham which has replicas of four Dhaams of the country, all at one place on the Solophok hilltop in Namchi. Badrinath, Rameswaram, Dwarka & Puri. Then there are replicas of other prominent dhams. There is imposing statue of Lord Shiva towering over the entire complex. This complex is in direct line of sight from Darjeeling which we will come to know later. The place is new, well-built but being new and all stone and concrete doesn't arouse same feeling of devotion. A little ahead of it is another devotional place, Sai temple which was grand and spacious.
Lord Shiva presiding over Siddheshwara Dham
Replicas of Rameshwaram & Dwarka at two ends

Sai palace

From here we went to visit the Rock garden and Samdruptse which has the world's largest statue (at 118 feet) of the Buddhist Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, the patron saint of Sikkim. Apart from road, there is a 2-stage cable car whose first stop is Rock garden and second Samdruptse. We decided to enjoy the cable car which had hardly had any rush. The first stage took 20 minutes to Rock garden. We passed over Namchi town and onto the hills above tall trees. Slowly we reached the rock garden which had lot of flowers. Sikkim is also known for its own variety of flowers which are not found at other places. After enjoying there for some time, we went to top of the Samdruptse hill. From the station we walked to the statue. The statue is hollow and one can climb the statue to the top. 

Rock Garden
Rock Garden

Sandruptse
Cable car

Cable cars going to Sandruptse

We had a quick meal outside the temple of momos and roll. We took the ropeway back to the town. After this it was an 85 km drive to Gangtok with a small stopover at Singtam. 

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