Crossing States & Rivers - Telangana, Maharashtra, Chhattisgarh

Recently went on a road trip with my friend from Hyderabad to river territory on the borders of Telangana, Maharashtra & Chhattisgarh along with temple visits in the region. This region has no particular names but due to riverine geography, the state borders are along rivers. There is also an anecdote why we went to visit this area? Way back in 2006, we had gone on a trip to Bastar via Bhadrachalam and wanted to come back to Hyderabad from Jagdalpur via Warangal which was shown as NH-16 in a typical road atlas. Remember those days there used to be such small books called India Road map. This was before Google Maps, social media so no option but to believe them. When we started on that NH-16 from Jagdalpur towards Warangal, the road condition deteriorated after Geedam into a mud track and just 10km before a place called Bhopalpatnam, which on Chhattisgarh border, we came to know there is no bridge over Indravati river! So no way we could cross over to Andhra side. At that time we back tracked to Dantewada, stayed overnight and came via usual route via Konta, Sukma, Bhadrachalam. This trip was to redeem that trip by going all the way to Bhopalpatnam and also do some temple visits on the way.

The entire trip route looked like this Hyderabad - Keesargutta - Yadgirigutta - Warangal - Ramappa Temple - Kaleswaram (TS) - Sironcha (MH) - Bhopalpatnam (CG) - Tarlaguda (CG) - Etunagaram (TS) - Mulugu - Hyderabad. Keesrgutta is a famous Shiva temple. Yadgirigutta being built by Telangana govt is coming up as rival to Andhra's Tirupati. Ramappa temple had recently been named as World Heritage site. This was on our card way back in 2006 as well but we could not visit. Then Kaleswaram on the confluence of Godavari & Pranhita rivers. Sironcha is a perhaps remotest small town which falls in Maharashtra wedged between Telangana and Chhattisgarh due to borders being marked by rivers and the portion being contiguous to Gadchiroli district of Maharashtra. Bhopalpatnam our ultimate destination. Tarlaguda is on the alternate route from Bhopalpatnam back to Warangal if we don't visit Kaleswaram/Sironcha. Then added thrill of crossing over 3 state borders & equal number of rivers in such a remote area out of thoughts of people at large except locals.

Route we took

We left from Hyderabad and went to Keesargutta temple first. It is a famous Shiva temple on a hill. The temple has Shivalingas strewn around the hill and rich history.

offerings to shivalinga

shikhar of temple

another view

shivalinga

After darshan, we went to have breakfast at a Punjabi dhaba which is typically frequented by truckers. Finding such a rustic Punjabi dhaba at such a location was amusing. We had an aloo parantha with dal and it was enough.

parantha & dal

dhaba interior

We then left for Yadgirigutta through internal road which turned out to be pretty broken. Yadgirigutta complex itself seemed to be in between construction site but finishing up. The Narsimha Swamy temple had lot of rush. The temple is built on a hill and there is narrow road winding up. To be frank, it seemed a bad design with limited parking space. The autos were charging Rs. 100 one way to go up & down doing brisk business. We skipped the darshan and said namaste from outside and left.

Narasimha Swamy temple

Yadgirigutta under construction

We joined the National Highway which has destination board till Bhopalpatnam. The road was excellent and had nice time cruising. However, near Warangal, the road turned into normal road. We stopped at a local beer shop and had a drink. Few locals were having their drink. This place is also famous for toddy and we could see earthern pots tied to palm trees to collect it. 

Inside Warangal town with boulders in sight

We took a detour via Parkal-Karkapalle instead of Mulugu to Ramappa temple. We stopped at some beautiful locations in between to admire the beauty of surrounding fields.

We reached by 4 pm but it was enough to visit the temple while there is sunlight. The Ramappa temple is a small temple complex dedicated to lord Shiva with a huge Nandi made of granite. It was constructed in the year 1213 CE by Recharla Rudra—a General of Kakatiya ruler Ganapati Deva 1199–1262. It was hard to imagine the Nandi survived all this time and still looked great. Same with other figurines on the temple structure. The temple was serene and gave lot of peace just to look at Vimana from different angles. What would have the scene here when it was getting built? How were the people, what tools were they using, what food they were easting? How did they pulled all those stones and places them on top. These were the questions I always have in mind whenever I visit such old temples. Just close my eyes and try to image the scene. Alas, that scene cannot be recreated.

from outside

view from entrance

granite figurines

exquisitely carved granite column

another view

youngsters enjoying on platform

granite Nandi bull for last 8 centuries

World heritage plaque

about temple

After visiting temple, we moved towards our overnight stay at Ramappa Lake Haritha resort of TSTDC. Close to resort is the boating jetty from where speed boat is available to take a round in the lake. The lake was serene with clear water. The sun was fading and it was last couple of trips remaining and couple of families waiting. We both were not enthused about boating so just watched the boat and surrounding atmosphere. 

boating jetty

sunset over serene waters

boating enthusiasts

The cottage was basic built on slope with steps to climb. There was no food available in canteen even though there were few other visitors. We decided to go to Mulugu which is around 12 km to have food and come back. Driving through pitch dark and quiet road till we hit main road and upto Mulugu was exciting. Mulugu is a decent town. We just went to a tiffin place and had meals which was OK.

We woke up early in the morning and took stroll till boating point and beyond to another jetty place while the sun was coming up. Here I witnessed, how does landscape looks in hinterland in the morning, hazy and slowly becoming clear. I tried to do my regular run and witnessed a portrait like image of an elderly local couple cycling away. Another enquiry went through my mind. What kind of life do the people here live? We are all enamoured by glitz of Hyderabad and Hi-tec city but here are simpleton bodies, emaciated. Just hope that they are content with the natural surroundings disrupted by us city folks.

another boating jetty

pump house

village folks going on daily routine

rural landscape in winters

After readying up, we started for day to complete our tour and be back at Hyderabad by evening. We went towards Kaleswaram but in between had breakfast at a local place at Karkapalle selling hot wadas. They were delicious. The road up to Kaleswaram was good to decent. At Kaleswaram we went straight to the temple. There were quite a few people here. They come from all across this region. All signages were in Telugu. There was a Pushkar ghat at the confluence of Godavari & Pranhita but one had to walk for 1/2 km. We skipped it in the interest of time and also in excitement of what lay ahead when proceed further. There is also a Kaleswaram barrage but we did not have time to visit it.

Hot vadas

Kaleswaram temple

Very soon we approached the bridge over Godavari (after confluence with Pranhita). We stopped at the approach and the policeman starting asking why were are stopping? We were taking picture of the overhead destination board and trying to sink in the feeling of crossing  over from Telangana to Maharashtra. 

destination board

For me, it was even special. I was coming from Pune with MH-12 vehicle, crossing into other side of Maharashtra. What connection does Pune have to Sironcha? Nothing I guess except they are in same state but so apart that another state, its language & culture comes in between. We crossed the bridge stopping in between to soak in the wide Godavari river basin. Before we entered Sironcha, we did a small detour of crossing the bridge over Pranhita to other side which goes towards Chennur-Mancherial. It was just to "cover" this bridge too. Perhaps this too was not built in 2006. It seemed evident from the construction. 

Pranhita river

Sironcha-Chennur bridge

Godavari on the way to Sironcha

I was excited to get into Maharashtra, see some marathi symbols, language etc. But Sironcha town had not much. There was hardly any boards or any signs of being in Maharashtra. I realized the town is more Telangana than Maharashtra. There were TS autos, vehicles. The bus stand had no ST as MSRTC strike was going on. The district headquarter for Sironcha is Gadchiroli is 200+ km so people first take kali-peeli to Allapalli and from there to Gadchiroli. Nagpur is further close to 200 km! India is a big country and with roads, lack of transportation make it even bigger. Just to mark our presence, we had a little snack & tea.

We are at Sironcha

Tea & Samosa

After that we left for Bhopalpatnam which is around 50km from here. This wedge between Telangana & Chhattisgarh is 50 km wide. The road surprisingly was very good built in last few years and perhaps intact due to not much truck freight. The signs and all very well marked and surroundings were flat, fields and bright sunshine. 

Road to Bhopalpatnam

fields on the way

river on the way

sand bank

on the way to Bhopalpatnam

Soon we reached the bridge over river Indravati. On crossing it immediately we were stopped by Chhattisgarh police and Covid post. After customary questions they let us go. We went to a small temple on the banks of river just 200m from the checkpost. It was at elevation which provided good views of the bridge. We got down to the banks of river and waded a little in as the slope was almost flat. It is the same river on which is situated the Chitrakote fall which we had seen in full glory in 2006. Here the river was wide and quiet. There were folks doing pooja of the river. Over a period I realized how natural features like land, river, trees & animals are revered in our country. Rivers which give water, brings fertility to region and how this is unique to our country or Indic people of this Indian subcontinent land. The rivers has flown like this for centuries bringing life to region.

boats in Indravati river

life transformed for local people due to bridge

Bridge over Indravati

Bridge over Indravati

serene Indravati river

finally we cross Indravati river bridge on vehicle

rever the river

folks praying the river goddess

After some time we went to Bhopalpatnam town proper which is just couple of kilometers away. Our ultimate destination. The town is small just beside this main road that we passed through it in couple of minutes. We were looking for a place to eat and while looking for it went beyond the town on the road to Jagdalpur. This was the road which was not there when we came in 2006. Now we could see bikes and vehicles coming from opposite side. Perhaps the region has picked up due to road. It was tempting to go further but we came back. There was no decent restaurant as such, only snacks but found a small meals place. The typical fare of Rice but little different than Telangana.

Finally reached our destination

Meals at Bhopalpatnam

After that we enquired about alternate road which was not marked towards Tarlaguda. The road initially was decent single lane but started deteriorating till it became mud track reminding of our trip in 2006, thankfully it was dry season now. I could see pall of dust cloud being left behind by my car. There were houses beside the road perhaps of people driven out of interior villages by naxals and settled here and couple of CRPF posts. This lasted till we crossed Tarlaguda and hit a checkpost for trucks where we had to register ourselves. The person there assured that road will improve once we cross over to Telangana. Then came the border of Telangana but it was unmanned! Perhaps the checkpost behind was for Chhattisgarh but what about Telangana. Guess they don't expect lot of people come this way. There was a small bridge to cross over. 

Board announcing Telangana and limit ends for Tarlagugda, Chhattisgarh

From here, we were going along Godavari river and at one point saw huge barrage. We came to Bogatha waterfall and went to have a look. The road here was good, single lane, less traffic and green flat fields around.

Bogatha waterfall

green fields all around

scenic road

From there we crossed over Godavari once again at Malakatta. This bridge too was built only in 2016 as announced by the plaque. We stopped on the bridge to take in the expanse of the bridge and river below.

huge expanse of Godavari

fishermen on Godavari

Mallakatta bridge built in 2016

Bridge for locals

From there, it was road through forest upto Eturanagaram and then onto Mulugu. At one point road has fork whose other end goes to Bhadrachalam which was our base to enter Chhattisgarh way back in 2006. At Mulugu, the sun had set and after having tea, we were keen to reach back to Hyderabad and eventually reached by 9pm. 

Overall it was quite satisfying trip, crossing 4 bridges over 3 rivers and visiting temples, driving 800km over just 2 days. Such trips don't have tourism value but meant for the intrepid traveller who wish to go where nobody has gone.