Annapurna Base Camp - Nepal

Annapurna Base Camp trek has been on my bucket list for long time since more than 12 years when I first came to know about it. It was in my subconscious as tea-house trek which would conjure up pictures of quaint, thatched roof rural dwellings in hills with wood fired cooking, a complete rural setting. But in reality it was quite different, more about it later. The trigger for this trip was a newsletter from Indiahikes.com about upcoming treks. The moment I opened the page which had picture of Annapurna-I, I made up my mind to do this trek. I had done a trek Dayara Bugyal with Indiahikes with the founder himself way back in 2011 so didn't shop for any other trekking group.

Annapurna Base Camp

5th April

I reached Pokhara via an adventurous journey through land border with Nepal from Sanauli. On 5th April, 7PM our trek group was slated to meet. The participants were from different parts of the country and it was a nice & diverse group. We were a group of 15 trekkers, one Trek leader, one assistant Trek leader and 3 porters who were going to be with us. Trek leader was a Gorkha himself and from India. He was young & enthusiastic person who explained everything very well and patiently answered questions. After having dinner and purchasing some stuff we went to individual hotels with promise to meet at 8am at Basundhara park not very far from our hotels. 

Treks in Nepal require permission which were obtained for us by Indiahikes from TIMS (Trekkers Management Information System) who have check-posts at different locations where they need to checked.

6th April

Today was the day for start of our trek. Woke up on time at 7am and went to the same place where I had breakfast yesterday thinking how great it would be. But the place was closed and had to settle for continental breakfast which was ok and had to wait for it. On top, Nepal time being ahead by 15 mins ensured I was late to arrive at meeting point but there were more group members who were late. We finally started at 8:30am in a bus which went out of Pokhara and climbed first to Sarangkot. This is a place close to Pokhara from where entire Annapurna range is visible. Today it was cloudy but still we got a glimpse of how magnificent it could be. We went through villages with narrow broken roads but enough vehicles carrying tourists. Mountain tourism is the main economy of this country. At some points the vehicle had to go back and forth to accomodate the other vehicle. We were either looking at the views or surviving the twisting and bumps of bus going over bad roads. We stopped for tea at a roadside shop. Black tea or ginger tea with optional honey to be put is staple tea. We can put milk to make it like Indian tea but tea is not made like in India. Here water is warmed up and tea bag added rather than boiling water with tea. At one place bought poncho for rain which is nothing but bluish coloured plastic sheet with which our assistance trek leader cut delicately and made holes to tie it up. I was confirming whether this is sufficient which they assured it is. 

Finally we came to place called lower Ghandruk from where we were to start our ascent. We passed main Ghandruk and came to first camp site at Komrong. We had lunch at lower Ghandruk and after that we started our climb. It was cloudy and it was raining lightly which forced us to wear our rain gear. I wore my poncho which was awkward and looked out of place. Even though I was facing difficulty walking at it was coming in the way of visibility and holding trek pole or drinking water but it was breathable. Most of the folks with conventional raincoat were sweating profusely as rain coat is not breathable. Whereas a poncho by design is breathable as it is open. 

The route had ascent by steps or plain trail which we did talking and supporting each other. This being the first steps of our trek so we were all enthusiastic. We passed lot of villagers and ponies which are the main transport medium here. After three hours we finally reached Komrong our halt for first day.

Mountains at the start of the ascent

Bridge to cross a stream

The trek route with porters carrying the load

Ghandruk

The tea house at Komrong was well kept. The rooms were tiny with just had plain walls, two separate single beds and a light. This was luxurious considering that in Indian trekking trails we don't get such facility and mostly we have to pitch tents. The beds were clean and they gave us a blanket too which was again clean and not smelling. They Nepalese standard for trek amenities are higher than India due to fact that these treks are frequented by westerners who demand such amenities.

7th April

Second day we woke at sunrise saw the view clearing up. Annapurna south and Machapuchare were clear though distant. The clouds were filling up the valley. Our guide pointed out where we had to go today. Though it seemed close but would take 5-6 hours to reach. We had to descend a lot first to cross the stream and then ascend to same height on the other mountain. The weather was inclement.

Machapuchare mountain

clouds in valley

Adjacent Kirana store where we stayed

As luck would have it, the moment we started walking there was heavy rain. We had to descend a lot to cross a stream using a tiny bridge. We just concentrated on walking downhill and on crossing the stream we stopped to have hot beverages at another tea house. From there the ascent was steep and we came upto a place where we had lunch. This place had a tree stump which jutted out. This provided a good photo op for everyone. This place also bifurcates the trail towards another place called Jhinu which we were going to take while coming back. From here our second campsite Chhomrong was an hour away. Till now due to cloudy weather and rain we couldn't admire the views so much. 

Views on the way

stream to be crossed

Helicopter at Chhomrong

All along I noticed that destinations are clearly marked by elegant signposts. However, the distance is not measured by length here but by amount of time it would take to reach there.

Sign posts for different destinations

Chhomrong was a decent sized town with a helipad which was just below our guest house. We watched few sorties of helicopter as well. There are helicopter ride available from Pokhara to ABC which take only few minutes as compared to our multi-day trek but what's the fun in that? The town had cellular tower and good closer view of Annapurna range. 

Chhomrong town

Prayer flags at Chhomrong

Helicopter sortie

After our tea and coffee the sky started to get clear and in some time the Annapurna range was clear. Next hour was spent in admiring the mountains - Annapurna south (7219 MTR), Hiunchuli (6400 MTR) and the star mountain Machapuchare (6993 MTR) which means Fishtail. The summit looks like tail of fish, two pointed tips with a curved ridge as if a fish has its head buried in the ground. The mountain is considered sacred, being home of Lord Shiva and this is the only high mountain which has not been submitted yet. Legend goes that in 1950s one trekker attempted to summit it but he came back from 150ft from summit on request of king of Nepal. Towards sunset the light turned orange and it gave orangish tinge to the mountains. We are not used to look up so high and find something so majestic. The purpose of coming for the trek had started fulfilling.

Annapurna South

Machapuchare

A little bit about the tea-houses. These are basic lodging facility which cater to trekkers. They are permanent structures with rooms which are plain basic with beds. These could be 2-6 bedded but with mattresses, clean sheets, blankets and few dining halls and full fledged kitchen but common toilet and bathrooms. They cater to trekking groups who once arrive in the tea house just pass time chit chatting, playing some game or eating. Kitchen is the main point of action. They take order of food well in advance and prepare and serve efficiently at Dining Hall. One doesn't fail to admire at their efficiency when one by one they bring dishes and serve them to guests. A reason for this efficiency is food should not cool down in this weather. Dining Hall gets a little cosy from heat of people rather than being heated. Adverse conditions does not mean tea-houses serve limited stuff. They have huge menu which apart from basic Dal-Bhat-Tarkari (Lentils, Rice and Vegetables) also include food like Pizza, Pasta, Noodle, Lasagna and even Sizzler. However the taste is something which could vary. Once we ordered pizzas and they were really good. People from group also ordered Italian dishes and they were more or less satisfied.

8th April

Today woke up at Chhomrong at sunrise. The ice at mountain top started glowing when the sunlight fell on it. Slowly the sun rays were visible as they were able to make it to the valley and the part which was obstructed by mountain ridge. We had our timely breakfast - Porridge and Omlette for me. We started from the tea-hourse, this time our destination being Dovan with lunch stop at Bamboo. Today the weather at the start was amazing. It was like perfect weather with bright sunlight and pleasant warmth. First time on the trek people applied sunscreen and wore sunglasses. We again had to go down first to cross a stream and then climb up. There were stone stairs all along. 

Mountain snow glistening in the sunlight

Stone steps all along

Bridge over stream

We stopped for tea at a place called lower Sinuwa. After that we descended a lot to come to Bamboo. Now we were inside the narrow valley with high mountain so not much view of peaks. At Bamboo we had lunch and in no time weather changed and it started pouring. We waited for rain to subside but started when it was still drizzling so that we don't get late. From there our third campsite at Dovan was just one hour. Bamboo had forest of bamboo trees which gave it its name. At Dovan we had accommodation which was like multi-bed dormitory and a wooden glass panelled dining hall. Since there was not much view to be seen, we spent time chatting and playing games. Dinner was at 7:30pm which arrived bang on time.

9th April

Today was going to be the toughest day of the trek. Today we would go from 8460 to 12000 ft. Also the distance of more than 10km. We started from Dovan and reached Himalaya where we had tea. This seemed to be mid-point for trekkers going up or coming down as it was crowded. The gradient was steep and had boulders and stones in the path. Namaste, Good Morning or Hello is how trekkers would greet each other when passing by. We were now well within Annapurna sanctuary where ponies are not allowed and all the stuff is carried by porters. One could not fail to admire their hardiness in carrying the stuff to such steep inclines. Our trek group was spread and we would team up with whoever was walking alongside. The forest around was full of Bamboo, Rhododendron and other trees.

Steep ascent enroute Himalaya

At Bamboo

Rhododendron and Bamboo

Boulder filled ascent to Deurali

From Himalaya we went to Deurali which we could see from far, stone buildings with blue roof at the edge of mountain.

Deurali from distance

From then on we climbed further into narrow valley along Modi Khola. Khola means river in Nepali. The clouds started coming in from below and filled the entire valley. We were walking in the mist and clouds. The temperature dropped and it was quite cold. We were just carrying along as we can rest only on reaching Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC). By this time there was no one coming from opposite side as people coming down from ABC, start early and nobody would come in the afternoon. So, it was a lonely walk with only 1-2 people from trek group to accompany.

Along Modi Khola

MBC

Finally reached a point where the path to ABC was marked. Our guest house was 20 minutes from there. It was a relief to reach and rest. The entire valley was clouded and raining so there was no view. We retired for the night hoping tomorrow would be clear.

10th April

Today we were to go from MBC to ABC which is 2 hour trek which is not much but we would go from 3700 to 4130 MTR the highest point of our trek and final destination. While we were about to start, weather started clearing up and we saw Machapuchare and other peaks. As we started walking, more views started becoming visible - Annapurna south, Hiunchuli, Gandharvchuli and Annapurna-III and finally the 8 thousander Annapurna-I. 

On the way to ABC

Machapuchare and MBC

Annapurna-I

We could see the ABC camp from distance. There were congratulatory boards just before the camp and trekkers were posing for clicks on their achievement. ABC camp is surrounded by high peaks around and there was unmelted snow around and high wind. We were expecting a snow fall but it did not happen. We kept our bags and took a round of surroundings and observing the mountains whenever we got a chance from the clouds and mist. The expeditions to climb Annapurna-I start from here. But at this point there was no expedition going on. A little away from guest house there were memorial for people who summited or died while summiting the Annapurna-I and other symbols of being there and done that. Our trekking group too left a mark there for posterity. Annapurna has ihgh fatality rate for those climbing it. There is a book called Annapurna by French mountaineer Maurice Herzog who first submitted it. Apart from ABC trek there is a longer trek which goes around entire Annapurna range which takes 15 days. Due to cold it was difficult to stay outside for long, so we all huddles in the dining hall.

Congratulations on achieving the feat

Memorial at ABC

Our trekking group

Grand view of Annapurna-I

There were several trekkers who were there that day. The guest house was full. Probably there might have been some 300 trekkers at that time. The temperature was below 0 upto -4C during the day and went down upto -7C in the night. We had early dinner and we went of to sleep after wearing everything that we had brought. All the warm clothes were for this day.

11th April

Today we start of our descent. I woke up fresh and was happy to start going down. But today was going to be gruelling 15km walk mostly descent but some ascent too. Going down is tough on your knees and one has to be careful not to twist ankle or slip. Slowly we crossed all those intermediate stops we had made - MBC, Deurali, Himalya, Dovan and came to Bamboo. We stayed at Bamboo. We had climbed back to 7000ft which was safe elevation so we were relieved of AMS.

12th April

We climbed down from Bamboo to Jhinu. The starting was ascent by steps all the way to Upper Sinuwa. Then a little descent to Lower Sinuwa. Then to get to Chhomrong, we had to first descent steep and then a gruelling ascent to the town. The ascent to Chhomrong was really hurting as we are already tired of last 7 days. When we reached there it was really sunny and within an hour things changed and it rained heavily. As they say, in mountains weather changes very quickly was something which we witnessed so many times. Then after that there was a gruelling descent to Jhinu which was all steps. Here it was raining on and off but there was a comfort of having tea house booked. This tea house had attached toilet to the room. As our trek leader and other other trekkers mentioned that as compared to treks in India or where we have to pitch tents this was luxurious trek by any means. I did not have much experience of tented trek so I don't disagree. In the evening we had felicitation ceremony where our trek leader gave out certification of completion and vote of thanks to the team. We also shared our experiences. It was now time to reflect on that whole experience which was very good. Mountains make you go beyond your comfort zone and accept things and be humble as we just a small entity in front of them.

13th April

Today was the last day of the trek. Everyone woke with thought that we will finally be back to Pokhara. Last night heavy rain led to clear sky and mountains were glistening with the sunlight. We started from Jhinu. Today's trek was a series of ups and downs, crossing a stream. I remarked to a trek member that this is what is projected as ideal trek situation in promotional materials, bright sunny days with good views. After 3 hours we reached the road head at Siwai. At road head bus was waiting for us. During trek, smoke, booze and non-veg is not allowed strictly as policy. The group members were longing to have their beer. We had our lunch and beer as customary celebration and then left for Pokhara. It took 3 hours to reach Pokhara through gruelling road ride. After checking into hotel it was time to check upon things after being out of connection for 10 days. We had decided to meet in the evening for gathering. Today was Friday and new year Eve for Nepali new year, so Lakeside was well dressed up. The road was blocked for vehicular traffic and all the restaurants were packed and lot of people well dressed were out on the streets. There was music playing from every establishment. We found hard to find a spot which can accomodate 15 people but found one called Zorba. We had our booze and food. I bid goodbye to all trek members with promises of keeping it touch. That brought a memorable trip of my life to an end.