We travelled to Spiti Valley in Himachal in May 2015. We booked the package with a tour operator for a dedicated vehicle, driver and guide. The package was ex-Shimla so we had to plan for getting to Shimla and back from Pune.
Pune - Delhi - Shimla
We booked Duronto Express both ways to travel from Pune to Delhi and back. The train is conveniently timed though it runs on Friday from Pune and Monday from Delhi but then it forces you to spend more time on your vacation two full weeks. The train is quite popular and get booked within minutes on first day of reservation being opened. I fought with IRCTC site on the first day to secure confirmed reservation.
Delhi to Kalka was by Shatabdi Express which is again convenient but the train interior and service was disappointing, same menu of unpalatable things served for years together. Railways takes ages to innovate on things. Secondly the train interior is poorly maintained.
Kalka to Shimla was by cab. I booked one for www.kalkashimlataxi.in. The driver forced a break of 20 minutes for lunch even though we were not interested with a haryanvi "khan khun ko time to lage se". Since we just had one night at Shimla before starting for our tour next day we booked a hotel at Chhota Shimla away from hustle-bustle of Mall road and rest in solitude. We reached hotel Springfields (http://www.hotelspringfields.com) by 3:30 pm and pleasantly surprised by the property. Its a heritage property originally built by Raja Dehant Singh and his grand-son is running the place now. Its mostly wooden with great staff with whom spent quite some time talking about the place. They have a small courtyard facing the valley which is the best part. The rooms and interiors were also quite impressive. We thoroughly recommend this hotel for a relaxed stay. I would love to stay here reading books in lawn and just not do anything. It seems they mostly get foreigners as visitors when look into their guest book which had pretty old records. We also got to meet a wonderful family with kids and spent talking and celebrating wife's birthday with them in the evening.
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View from Springfields, Chhota Shimla |
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Beautiful lawn overlooking the valley at Springfields |
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Springfields building |
Shimla - Kinnaur
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Bhimakali temple in village surrounding |
Today we were destined to Sangla valley. We connected back the main Hindustan-Tibet road at Jeori and went further. We had some nice breaks in the this pleasant journey.
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Temple comlex enroute |
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Deep rock cut to make road |
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Waterfall |
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Road obstacle which one would love |
To go to Sangla valley we had to break away from Hindustan-Tibet road at Karchham. Sangla valley might be named on Sangla town but river flowing through it is Baspa. Baspa merges with Satluj at Karchham. We reached Sangla leisurely by afternoon admiring the green valley throughout. We went to Cafe 42 there and had Maggi, Grilled Sandwiches, Coffee. The place was similar to any urban cafe with sit out and books etc. mostly catering to foreign tourists. The views throughout were great and it was a little cold.
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Sangla valley |
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Sangla valley |
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Sangla valley |
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Sangla Valley |
We proceeded to Chitkul which is the last point one can visit on vehicle on this route. Its a small village at 3400 mts. When we reached in late afternoon, it was quite windy and chilly there. Chitkul is located at quite wide open valley. Due to melting ice, there were many streams gushing through village. We walked up a little to visit the temple. We just had tea at one of the shops and returned back to our night stay at Rakchham. We stayed at Hotel Apple Pie which was again basic but had great food.
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Chitkul village |
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Famous sign to claim the dead end |
In the morning took a walk upto Rackchham village and beyond it. The sun was yet to show up above mountain. Once it was was about to burst out, the rays scattered on the mountain top. Once the sun was fully up the entire valley was filled with sunlight and due to mist there was haze. At one point we came to open valley with mountain streams criss-crossing. What an experience it was which can't be described in words.
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A very distinct house with chimney looking like ship |
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Apple orchard with flowers |
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Streams are abundant in this verdant valley |
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Picture perfect |
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Baspa River |
Today we were to drive to Kalpa which is a town above Reckong Peo which is administrative headquarter of Kinnaur district. We started leisurely and soon reached Sangla which gives name to the valley. Sangla village is on a slope with houses rising one above the other with gigantic Kinner-Kailash peak (6,050 m) towering over it. Sangla is also famous for Kamru Fort. This fort is like a tower dedicated to Kamakshi Temple. The Goddess idol was brought from Guwahati (Assam). We braced ourselves and took to steep climb of stairs. The climb took us through houses of Kamru village and get a peek into their life. First there is a temple which has couple of shrines in the small courtyard in hill architecture. Their sloping roofs are lined with flat chipped stones tiles and the distinctive cone as the top. The main Kamru fort was still some climb away. Thankfully, it was quite sunny and pleasant for the climb. After some time, the Kamru fort came into view perched right at the top of the village. One has to tie a cloth around waist and wear a cap which is available in the fort to enter the precincts and go around. The fort is one of the oldest in Himachal and its origin is not known. The temple is stone and wood and its remarkable that it still stands today after hundreds of years of harsh weather. The view from the top was gorgeous looking into the valley and mountains beyond.
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On the way to Sangla |
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View from Kamru fort |
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Kamru fort |
From Sangla we joined the Hindustan-Tibet road again at Karchham and came upto Powari. The road till Powari was pretty bad and dusty. From Powarni we ascended to to Reckong Peo where we stopped for lunch. We went to Little Chef restaurant which was at the main junction. We had Kinnauri Rajma which is sourced from Nesang village and it was delicious. The first impression of the town was like any other hill town with haphazard construction, vehicles dangling wires.
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Reckong Peo town |
After that we ascended further to Kalpa which is just 8 km but one has to gain lot of height. As we ascended through winding roads and wooded forest, Kinnaur Kailash range was getting visible and direction of sun was favorable. We checked into hotel Apple Pie which like rest of the hotels had rooms facing the Kinnaur Kailash. The main town of Kalpa was visible a little below with its distinct temple. Since we didn't have any plans for afternoon we were invariably looking at them trying to take in as much as we can, every peak, crevice, the tree line. I borrowed binoculars from the hotel manager repeated the routine again and again every time looking at something new resting only to take a deep breath of the cool air. Towards the evening dark clouds gathered on the range and probably it rained. The Kinnaur Kailash range has a peak which has a shivling stone on top. There is a well know trek to shivling peak. One which goes around the peak called "Parikrama" and other one is to get down to the other side at Chitkul. The Sangla valley from where we came is just beyond the Kinnaur Kailash range.
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Shivling peak visible in the middle |
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Range with prayer flags fluttering |
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Kalpa town nestled in the valley |
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Kinnaur Kailash range |
Kalpa - Tabo
Tabo - Kaza
We started from Tabo and went to Dhankar. Its a village perched high above from the road to Kaza. It has a monastery which is second only to Tabo in reputation in the region. The monastery is precariously placed on the edge of mountain overlooking the huge delta of Spiti merging with Pin river. The monastery was closed as the main priest was away though we were feasting on the views. Dhankar also has a high-altitude lake which is at the height of 4200 mts around an hour and half of steep trek away. We were all prepared to do the climb but my son being only 4 years was doubtful. Even though we all started but after some time due to tiredness wife & son held back. Me & the guide trekked along. After around an hour we reached the top of a plateau from where lake is a little further. The path is all strewn with a distinct vegetation strewn around the landscape. The lake was really breath-taking. The water was transparent and there were fish in the water! I just tried to soak in as much as possible of the lake view. After we came down to Dhankar we had food at a guest house there. They made us a Tibetan Sandwich which was omlette and other veggies stuffed between Tibetan bread.
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On road |
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Delta of Spiti and Pin river |
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Dhankar village |
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Strange vegetation strewn across the landscape |
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Dhankar lake |
After that we went came to Kaza and checked into hotel Spiti Valley. After settling down we went for a little stroll at Kaza market which is the main town center of Spiti valley.
Kaza - Langcha - Kibber
Today we were to go to high altitude villages near Kaza namely Langcha, Komik, Hikkim & finally to Kibber where we are going to stay overnight. These villages are one of the highest inhabited villages in the entire world all year round. These villages are just a bunch of flat-roof, white-walled, dark-windowed houses among some fields and nothing much. People here collect dry wood and twigs on the roof for the winter season when they burn them to keep the home warm. Temperatures here drop upto -40C in winters and for prolonged period. In summers they till the nearby land and grow peas, potato etc. Langcha has a huge Buddha statue in the open which is visible from far. It is one of the unique Buddha statue in such a setting surrounded by high-peaks. After visiting it, we went to Komik which is another high altitude village. There is a small monastery here which we visited. We also a hot-tea made by monastery folks for us. While going back we just passed Hikkim village which supposedly has a post-office for this region. Even though it was late May but ice had not completely melted and at many locations the ice was still collected in mounds. We stopped at one of them to enjoy making and throwing snow-balls which my son enjoyed very much.
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Langcha village |
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Giant Buddha statue in Langcha village |
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Monastery at Komik village |
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Hikkim village |
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Way down from villages to Kaza |
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View of Kaza from top |
We came back to Kaza as road to Kibber was a little different. Today we decided to try local cuisine which is Thupka and Veg Momos. Here, one mostly gets mutton Momos, hardly Chicken and Veg momos have to be specially ordered. The meal was nice and we were ready to proceed to Kibber. The road to Kibber goes via Ki Monastery but we decided to visit it while coming back next day.
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Thupka |
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Ki monastery at a distance |
At Kibber we stayed at Tashi Zom guest house which was just before the village separate from the rest of the village. It was really sunny, windy and chilly outside so most of the time we stayed indoor. I went out a little to take a walk around the guest house and inside the village. This is a proper village with a school and a game of volleyball was going on. There are other guest houses and this village witness some tourists. Here I met Mr. Anurag Jately and his assistant. He is ex-NGC, ex-Fox Traveller head of programming for them and he was shooting night sky in timelapse, phew!! I was just awestruck listening to his anecdotes and watching some of his work on his laptop. He had come to Kibber on his Mahindra Thar with 250kg of photography equipment. They would set out only at night after 11PM and come back by 3-4AM after putting their cameras at multiple location. He invited me to join him but thinking of dark night in such altitude, forget about the chill what about if there is a miss of a skid??? I simply did not have courage to step out leave alone go with them at such time and I was anyway grappling with my thoughts of high-altitude dizzyness. He told me to have a look at Milky way which is visible to naked eye when it rises around midnight. I braved a small 15-20 minute outside the guest house and really looked at the Milky Way. Our room was completely wooden and even had provision to burn wood in a wood-stove which we enjoyed.
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At Kibber village |
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Kibber village |
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Kibber village |
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Post office at Kibber |
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Distant village seen from Kibber |
Kibber - Kaza
We started from guest house and walked through Kibber village among the villagers. People were bust in their chores and children were smiling, playing. This is probably the best time of the year for them. We took a detour to Kaza via Chichum. This is a village which is across a deep gorge from Kibber and the road it too circuitous and time taking, so there is a hand-operated rope trolley which locals use to cross over. We witnessed one such crossing by a woman and her child. The guide told us that its quite tiring to operate the trolley. We slowly descended from Chichum. At one point, we saw group of blue sheep which is local to this place.
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Inside Kibber village |
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Trolley to Chichum village |
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Blue sheep |
We came down and went to Ki Monastery. It is located at the top of small hill like vanilla ice-cream on a cone. Like other Buddhist monasteries they allow visitors to roam around the monastery. Our guide took us through all parts of the monastery. Young lamas were chanting in the open and some of them giggling at us while taking photos. Older lamas were busy in their chores. We went to their kitchen and had tea there. There was preparation going on for lunch. Cooking was all wood fired. We went to the terrace of the monastery for sweeping view of the river valley. There were some figurines which are meant to drive away the evil spirits.
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Entrance to monastery |
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Prayer wheels at Ki monastery |
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scary |
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Monastery kitchen all wood fired |
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Young lamas practising in courtyard |
After spending enough time came back to Kaza and checked back into same hotel Spiti Valley. This time we were the only guests. The hotel is run by a local couple both of whom are government servant in a local school. Since there were no guests to attend the owner interacted with us. Most surprising was the owner had been to Nagpur for doing a course in Physical Education. I am from Nagpur and it is notorious for being the hottest places in India. This first question was how an inhabitant of Spiti could survive in the heat of Nagpur? He told us that government job is the most sought after occupation here as private enterprise is limited. We slept not knowing what was in store next morning. Next morning when I woke up, it was snowing and entire valley was covered in snow and white. This was something we did not anticipate so were naturally thrilled and played with snow on the terrace. It wasn't a heavy snowfall and it soon stopped.
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Kaza monastery in snowfall |
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snowfall |
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Houses and valley covered in snow |
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snowfall |
Kaza to Mud (Pin Valley) to Tabo
Our guide made a small change in itinerary and instead of staying at Kibber for 2 days, we thought of spending an additional day at Tabo and visit Pin valley instead. There is a village called Mud which is the last motorable village in Pin valley around 35 km inside the road to Tabo. The road follows the Pin river and is into Great Himalayas as against Trans-Himalayas of Spiti valley. The road was pretty treacherous but with great views of snow-covered mountains so close probably from last days snow fall. There was lot of ice still not melted around the road. Pin valley is supposed to be very green but we were a little early in the season. Mud is one of the end-point of Pin-Parvati trek who goes over Pin-Parvati pass and comes down to a village called Wangtu which connects to the road to Shimla. At Mud, there was literally a glacier over a mountain stream and we had lot of fun throwing snowballs. We had delicious (anything hot is delicious) momos and noodles here for lunch.
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Going inside Pin valley
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View from Mud village towards Pin valley |
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Getting deep into Pin valley |
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Glacier at Mud |
After that we traced back our way and came to Tabo and stay at Tashi Khangsar. Tabo is in an open valley with narrow opening so it is mostly windy. Next morning there was a fresh spell of snow-fall and the barren brown hills were white.
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Tabo hills with fresh snowfall |
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Our hotel at Tabo |
Tabo - Kalpa
Now we were backtracking our way back and due to over exposure of barren mountain scenery there was less enthusiasm. We stopped at a spot to get into the Spiti river basin and after some stone hurling and calm moments hearing the sound of the flowing river we made quick retreat to Kalpa which I was looking forward to. We reached Reckong Peo and again had lunch at the same Little Chef place with same Kinnauri Rajma. We checked in again at Apple Pie hotel at Kalpa. We had kept one day at Kalpa so we had next full dat to explore Kalpa and surroundings. Most of the time was spent spending time in the room looking at overcast and probably raining in the Kinnar-Kailash range.
Kalpa
I woke up well before sunrise to admire sunrise in the hills and took position at a vantage point. Kalpa is pretty popular with Bengali tourists and there are hotels catering exclusively to them with signs written in Bengali. Many of them were up and ready to look at the sunrise. The entire hour or so from initial light to complete immersion of the valley in sunlight was like a light show with many hues from orange to blue and the sunlight diffused by the mist. Once sun was up there was an urge to have a hot cuppa so I climbed down to the Kalpa village. But there was no shop open as yet. took a round and found a stall open.
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Just before sunrise |
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Valley getting first rays |
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Contrast |
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Sun completely fills the valley |
After readying up we went to visit Reckong Peo this being a free day for us. We first went to Monastery of Mahabodhi Society which has a huge statue of Budhha and lots of flowers. Watching the statue against the backdrop of KK range was gorgeous. After that we went to a couple of Tibetan/Buddhist and Hindu temple which are adjacent. They both had typical small structures with intricate wooden carvings. After that we went for walk and shopping in local market. We bought some Kinnauri Rajma, Walnut, some herbs and woollens. In the evening we went to suicide point or windy point which is on the way further than Kalpa on the road to village called Roghi. The place has view of deep valley down below and its quite a windy place due to hills around. That ended the day for us in Kalpa.
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Buddha staute |
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Us at the statue |
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Snow capped peak |
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Buddhist temple at Reckong Peo |
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Chandika devi temple at Kalpa town |
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Wooden carvings at the temple |
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Prayer wheels at Kalpa temple |
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Suicide point really deep and windy |
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End of the day at Kalpa |
Shimla - Delhi - Pune
After returning from Spiti tour this time we stayed at Bridge View Regency on the Mall Road, steps away from HPTDC Lift. The location was nice and easy if one has to roam around Mall Road and Ridge but a little away from Heritage structures of Shimla. The hotel itself has weird layout where one has to climb steps before/after lift. Thankfully we got a room with great view of entire main Shimla. The hotel had things lacking one of them was availability of water. Secondly, there was no ceiling fan or AC as probably the time the hotel was built there was no need for fans but now with hotter summers even in Shimla, they have provided only table fans. Lastly, their breakfast buffet was disappointing, no fruits or juices, only oily poori/bhature with aloo/chana and bread sandwiches with either boiled egg or omelette, no eggs to order. We had better breakfast at lesser equipped places in Spiti.
I have lived in Shimla long back in early 90s when my father was posted here. I used to come in summers for 2 months for 3 years, so I was keen on visiting places where I had lived and visited during that time. We lived in a suburb of Shimla there called Kelti. The route to it is from Ridge to Longwood and then towards Kelston and then bifurcate at one point towards Kelti. It was nostalgic to walk on the same road which I used to frequent 20 years back as child. To my surprise, road was just like what it used to be. Same road barriers painted green and white, the rain shelters where I took refuge many times in rains, the ascent, descent. The final leg to Kelti was still unpaved like it was at that time. Though this time saw more people crossing me with phones in their hands, hoardings and presence of vehicles. Finally in Kelti it was transformation. There was a cellular tower standing right in front of house where we used to stay and the building added more rooms above and in front. Now there was a new motorable road upto Kelti from backside which was non-existent at that time. Houses had cars parked in front! Though there was familiar silence and sound of wind which I experienced at that time but still lot of construction unsettled me. Even in the valley down below which used to have only trails now seemed to have paved paths and there seemed more houses and fields in the hills on the other side of valley. There is a temple called Dhengu temple which is on a hill above Sanjauli. I remember me and my father walked to that temple on the day next to Rajiv Gandhi's assassination when all govt offices were closed. It was still there but now it had a red colored ugly looking tomb. Having nobody to meet per se, I left the place with mixed feelings.
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Shimla in the morning |
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Mall Road with Hanuman statue on Jakhu hill above |
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Shimla city |
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The Ridge, Shimla |
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Church, The Mall, Shimla
Next day we decided to visit some heritage attractions which surprisingly I didn't visit when I used to be here in early 90s. Perhaps because that time there was no information or interest. We took a cab to Viceregal Lodge which is on Observatory hill. Its a grand structure with great gardens in front and the back. The front garden was full of flowers and plenty of butterflies. The rear gardens are more relaxed where visitors can sit on grass. There is a HPMC outlet selling juices. The interiors are grand and the entrance hall is completely wooden. Lot of important decisions regarding India's independence and partition were carried out here. Nowdays it house Indian Institute of Advanced Studies which has research programs in humanities and liberal arts. Looking at the location and solitude its a perfect place to research on these topics. There are guided tours here which run at intervals of 45 minutes with entry fee of Rs. 40/-. They take you through 3 photo galleries and view of library and main entrance. From there we went to Himalayan bird park. It had birds found in Himachal though not very impressive collection. Mostly it had hen/cock and pheasants. Then we came to Himachal State Museum. The building is tucked away up in the hills and there is a steep, long climb to get there. However, it is worth it as it has many items in display both from Himachal and outside like sculptures, paintings, arms etc. Then walked upto Mall Road via Vidhan Sabha and other official buildings. This part of Shimla is silent and quite walkable. Once the Mall road started solitude gave way to crowd.
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Viceregal Lodge |
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Flowers at Viceregal Lodge |
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Garden at Viceregal Lodge |
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Himachal Phaesant |
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Ceceil Hotel |
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Railway Board building |
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Sunset over Shimla |
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Shimla all lit up |
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Sunset over Shimla |
This was complete three train journeys over 2 days. We started with Kalka-Shimla Himalayan Queen Express @ 10:30 am. The journey though seemed to be long but soon we were enjoying. There was light drizzle in the later part of travel. The best part was the moment train arrives the solitary eatery comes alive with people extending hands furthest to be served first.
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Our train ready to depart |
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Train going through forest |
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Finally back to plains |
Kalka to Delhi was by Shatabdi with same standard food and service. At New Delhi, we were taken at platform 1 and had to cross 16 platform and more to reach Ginger Yatri Niwas. Tired from day we were looking forward to sleep but had to wait for 30 minutes as rooms were being cleaned. Apparently, they over book passengers including day guests and allot rooms as and when available. Though the room themselves are quite reasonable for the price and efficient.
Next day we took a cab from Yatri Niwas to Hazrat Nizamuddin and boarded the train. The return journey was nice with company of families with kids.
2 comments:
Precise and fluid narration and some excellent photos.
i am also from pune !!! A Traveller too.
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