North Sikkim

Gangtok is situated in south Sikkim close to plains but the bulk of Sikkim is in North among the rugged mountains. Our trip included 2 days in North Sikkim, one day in Lachen and one day in Lachung. Lachen is base to visit the Gurudongmar lake the highest point one touches in Sikkim whereas Lachung is base for visit to Yumthang valley.

To go to North Sikkim one requires permit and the taxis leave from a specific point called North Sikkim Taxi stand. The outbound taxis are not allowed to pick up tourists from hotel, so we had to go to North Sikkim stand and wait till our driver acquired the permit which are granted the same day. After an hour and half wait, we finally left for North Sikkim. A little after Gangtok we saw the board announcing our entry to North Sikkim.

First stop is Seven sisters waterfall which is a waterfall with seven steps. Sikkim is water rich country due to glaciers melting which makes lot of streams passing down the mountains. This one is one such but big in volume. There was another mountain stream which is crossed by Rang Rang bridge. The stream meets the Teesta flowing below. The views mostly are sloping down mountain and the high mountains on the other side with green hues all around.

Seven sister waterfall

View of the valley

Mountain stream with Rang Rang bridge 

Mountain stream hurtling down

We reached Mangan in afternoon which is district capital of North Sikkim. Here we had lunch at hotel which catered to lunch pitstop with buffet style lunch setup. Lot of other toursists and bikers were having their meal here. The point is mid-way between Gangtok and North Sikkim making in lunch pitstop. From here we reached Tung checkpost where our documents were checked. From here we reached Chungthang from where road bifurcates towards Lachen and Lachung. Here the two rivers with same names Lchen and Lachung to form Teesta river. There is a small hydroelectric dam which forms a small lake. There is viewpoint to overlook dam and the river. From here we got onto Lachen road and reached the town late afternoon. It was pretty cold here and we could feel that we are at high altitude. The town had oddly built concrete buildings all around and didn't see as inviting as Lachung which we would visit later. The hotel was basic and food was decent.

Checkpost at Tung

Chungthang

Lachen

Next day we started early to visit Gurudongmar Lake which is 66 kms away. We started early morning at 5am in bitter cold and darkness. All the tourists who were at Lachen started at same time with vehicle behind each other. We stopped at a small eatery at sunrise but was bursting at seams with all those travelers who left Lachen. A small team of hosts were patiently catering to all of them. The prime seating was close to the stoves to get the warmth with some folks lining up to the only bathroom the house had. The road throughout the journey was treacherous with hardly any tarmac and bumps created due to movement of vehicles. There was also issue of lack of oxygen at this height, keeping in mind we were keeping ourselves hydrated. The entire road has presence of Army due to proximity to China border. At one such post, the sun came out and we enjoyed the surroundings with snow capped peaks all around. 

First pitstop after sunrise

Icrecream scoop mountain

Clear blue sky are welcome

Pit stop at an army cantonment

Our driver was opportunistic and was suggesting us detours ofcourse with some additional money. He suggested Kala Pathar which is in snow capped valley called Chopta valley. We took the bait and went for it. The valley view was really great covered with snow and a stream flowing in between. At one point we reached dead end beyond which snow was not cleared. Few more vehicles had come and stopped there. The snow was fresh may be few days old and it was easy to make balls and throw around. Another feature at such places are ice-sword i.e. a long, pointy icicle which could be plucked and flung around. Here I was thinking of remoteness of this place. On coming back, I looked up Kala pathar on Google maps. The road goes across a little more with China border around 10 kms from here.

On the way to Kala Pathar

Chopta Valley

Looking at Chopta Valley

Game of snow and ice

We came back to join the road to Gurudongmar lake. At one point, the road and surroundings were taken over by fog and it started snowing. Our driver tried to panic us by saying it may be difficult to go ahead, of course to dissuade us from going ahead and earn himself some easy rest. But we insisted and went ahead. A few kilometers before there was a checkpost where we picked up couple of bikers who were stranded. The road from here was good because we were going in a flat valley but once could make out that we were at high altitude. The vegetation was scarce and felt like we were in Tundra region. There is always a constant scare of what if anything goes wrong.  We reached the road head to the lake from where there was almost a kilometer up there were dirt tracks which were difficult for vehicle to pass through. Our driver struggled through those. We decided to walk upto the lake an ascent of probably half-km meters. But the moment I started walking I could feel the difficulty in taking steps. That's when we decided to ditch the lake as I didn't want to take any chances with health. Wife and kid too were not looking good. So, we started our journey back with salvation that atleast we came that far. 

Snowfall enroute

High altitude driving

Reached Gurudongmar lake

Relief to see village enroute

Ominous weather

When we talked to other tourists who visited that day said the lake was half frozen and they were exhausted to really enjoy the beauty and to keep time just spent 5-10 minutes out there. As we started our journey back, the weather became clear and we started feeling better as we neared Lachen. On this road, many people hit AMS as we Gurudongmar is at a height of 5400 meters! Some are taken into Army facilities to administer oxygen. Then there are some canteens where warm water is kept for free for tourists as a kind gesture by Army establishment around. There are even EME divisions of Army there with heavy tanks, their maintenance and repair facility. I wonder how the battle would have been fought in 1962 in these locales pushing up this heavy artillery. We reached back to our hotel Lachen completely exhausted. But we had to push ahead and go to Lachung after lunch for our overnight stay. The journey to Lachung felt better with a waterfall sight thrown in between.

I woke up early by 6am and sun was already out. I took a stroll outside the hotel till the end of street with mild cold breeze and sunshine. Fortunately a shop was open serving tea which was like divine. The view was awesom, the feeling that only a morning in mountains can give. 

Morning in mountains

Today we were to go to Yumthang valley which is supposed to be quite beautiful and it didn't disappoint. It is also known to be a valley of flowers but at this time there were not many in bloom. But the views were spectacular with deep blue sky, snow-capped peaks and green trees and bright sunshine. We could stop at any location and the view was great. However, midway there was a bad patch of road which was getting difficult to drive through. Many vehicles were stuck but with some patching with stones, one by one vehicles started crossing it but there was a mini-spectacle going on there with every vehicle taking a run-up and then every crossing being cheered by crowd around. Some other folks were busy taking in the view surrounding. 

Yumthang valley

majestic mountains

beauty at every bend

panoramic view

Mini spectacle on the way

The last point in Yumthang valley is Zero point which is quite picturesque beside Lachung river. The water was crystal clear flowing over rounded stones and wide bank and tree-laden hill on the other side. Any amount of time here was not sufficient. One thing which remains ironical is that we take so much time to arrive at some destination but spend very little time there. 

Yumthang Valley

views from valley

yumthang valley

We headed back to our hotel at Lachung, had our lunch and headed back to Gangtok. There is another point accessible from Lachung called Katao which is close to Lachung but we did not visit it. The journey back was relaxed stopping at same hotel at Mangan for lunch. We took a detour from North Sikkim highway at Tingchim zero point. The road goes along Teesta river. We stopped at Puttali Jharna, Butterfly Waterfall in between which took a little weariness out of our bodies. The driver dropped us all the way to our hotel instead of North Sikkim bus stand. We came back to same hotel Golden Crest which we had occupied earlier.

Sikkim - Gangtok

Our hotel The Golden Crest at Gangtok was a little before the city center in Deorali area. We were glad to be at the hotel after hectic day. However, in preparation for our North Sikkim trip, we were to buy a jacket for son. So, we decided to go to main MG road market despite it drizzling a bit. We found a taxi going up and they guided us to the stairs to climb to MG Road. The MG Road is the hub of Gangtok with shops, eateries and general promenade with benches. It was well lit. We did our shopping and easily found what we were looking for. After that had hot momos and we we back in hotel in an hour and 30 mins.

Next day our taxi came to hotel to take us to Changu (or Tsomgo) lake. Due to this being an organized trip, somehow I did not research much on this spot. The lake is close to Nathula pass, at quiet a height, has snow in summer and very cold. Gangtok was pleasant so did not take our warm jacket and all. The driver too was aloof and did not warn us. When we realized that road is climbing height, getting treacherous & how it was getting cold, we were worried but thankfully, there are shops to hire warm clothing much to our relief. We hired jackets, rubber boots, gloves and were all prepared to hit the snow. 

On the way to Changu lake

Treacherous climbing road full of military installations

The area around lake was all covered with snow, a bit cloudy and very cold. However, now we enjoyed the snow, especially our son who was keen to play in the snow. We climbed the adjacent hill with our legs burrying a feet deep into snow. There is also a ropeway but we did not attempt it due to weather and rush. 

Changu Lake

Enjoying on the snow

Enjoying on the snow

Destination board on the road

Beyond lake like Baba Harbhajan temple who has a myth and legend attached to him. One can read about it here. There was massive traffic ahead of us which was crawling. We decided to skip the temple and enjoy the surroundings for which our driver was more than happy. We came back to another lake called Hangu which was semi frozen in a small enterprise of Sikkim tourism not so aptly named as "Alpine Park" when the surroundings were all barren due to height. Anyhow, the skys cleared a bit and the fluttering prayer flags and semi-frozen lake provided some photo ops. 

Alpine Park

Snow clad mountain

Semi frozen lake

Buddhist flag fluttering

We came back to Changu lake point. There were yaks available to ride on them and few stalls. There was also a Changu Baba Mandir. The lake surrounded by snow clad mountains with cloudy and foggy weather made the place a little ominous. On top of that there were several tourist vehicles all around which made it resemble the hustle bustle one finds at Rohtang pass near Manali. 

Changu Baba mandir

Yak doing tourist duty

View resembling Rohtang pass

We left early to back to Sikkim. At the place where we rented the warm clothes, it started raining. We sat inside cosily eating momos and soup. The road to Nathula diverts from the main road a little early than Changu lake. This is all military area due to proximity with China border. Nathula pass and border was open till 1962 when war with China closed it. The pass was also used by Sikkimese to cross over and go to Tibet or Bhutan. In 1959-60 Nehru went to Bhutan via Nathula accompanied by Indira Gandhi, Chogyal of Sikkim (it was not yet taken over by India) on ponies. There are videos on youtube documenting that journey. Even though its China but the main China is far-far away. Noticed a distance signage showing distance all the way to Mansarovar lake which was 1600+ kms away. We did not have much urge to visit Nathula pass and border which one can do after obtaining taking special permit.

We came back to Gangtok to our hotel and after some rest decided to spend evening at Gangtok. There is a ropeway which starts from Deorali, next to Himalayan institute of Tibetology which was around a km walk from our hotel. We ambled to the station. There we came to know that cable car runs only upto 5:30pm and from next day it is going to be closed for some time for maintenance. It was sheer luck that we could ride the cable car on the last service of the day! The ticket is for roundtrip and gets lot of tourists. We rode back and forth. Its a km or so long ride gliding over main Gangtok town which gives great views. This ride was more like a skybus than ropeway of Namchi gains height. 

Ropeway carriage

View going up

View of arterial road of Gangtok

joyride for kid

Beauty of Sikkim

View going down

Carriage coming up

We got down feeling really lucky. From here we walked on the road and climbed up the stairs to usher onto MG Road. We went up and down the MG Road, had ice-cream, momos and after whiling way some time, came back to our hotel by taxi. One can hail any taxi going down the road to Deorali.

Going to MG Road

MG Road

Please evening at MG Road

Gandhiji at MG Road

Well developed, neat & clean promenade 

Next day we went for Sikkim Day tour. We started from hotel and first went to a flower show. It was supposed to open at 9:30AM so we took a stroll at Ridge Road. When it opened, we went inside to see the flowers. The exhibition was impressive with many flowers which are endemic to Sikkim. 

Flower show

From here we went to Ganesh Tok which has temple devoted to Lord Ganesh is a picturesque point to look at almost entire Gangtok and beyond. Here we can dress in local Sikkimese dress which we did a took a tour of the temple gorging on the sweeping views. The place was well managed with parking and a small shop with clean surroundings.

Panoramic view from Ganesh Tok

Ganesh Tok viewpoint

Traditional Sikkimese dress

Next to Ganesh Tok is gateway to Sikkim Zoo. We started walking but our driver came and told us that it is quite a long walk, so he dropped us to the gate. From here it was the most serene walk among the tall trees around and tranquility. First we went to the Bear pen which had a small terrace which opened into another view of the valley and hills beyond. It was so tranquil that we didn't know how to take it in. The Zoo has unique displays of Snow Leopard and Red Panda which are generally not see in other zoos but  we were lucky to see both of them. Then there were pheasants and other animals deer, sheep, ghoral, civet etc. The entire zoo is a the most relaxing walk in the nature. One would gain a day or two of life walking in these pure surroundings.

Bear pen

Pheasant

Snow leopard

Red panda

Tranquil Zoo

From Zoo we went to Tashi View point. This point again gives great views of Gangtok and surroundings. There is an small building with a small promenade area setup for people to walk round and click pictures. Here I found a very prominent distance marker. We decided to have lunch in nearby hotel. We order Nepalese Thali, Thupka and Momos. The fare was amazing. Nepalese thali comes with rice, tarkari, dal. Here catering to tourists, they served shahi paneer and gulba jamun. But the tarkari which is local leafy vegetable was delicious as the rest of the fare. Thupka was equally great. 

Tashi view point

View from Tashi viewpoint

Thupka

Nepali thali with gulab-jamun

4 important places for Sikkim

After this we enquired about the paragliding but abandoned when it turned out to time consuming and by going to a particular place and all. We went to Ban Jhakri park instead which has natural waterfall and few adventure activities like zipline, rope crossing of river underneath. It was a relaxing place walking on the cold water and watching people around trying tricks.

Ban jhakri

Ban jhakri

From here we went back to Deorali to Namgyal Institute of Tibetology which was setup by King of Sikkim Namgyal to provide a centre to study about Tibet, its religion, culture. Inside it was impressive displays. We bought a few souvneirs include a broze statue of Buddha. From here we walked (a steep walk) to Do Drul Chorten Monastery which has a huge chorten in a complex surrounded by prayer wheels. The chorten was magnificient and imposing. We did our ritual of rotating the prayer wheels clockwise to pay our respect.

Stupa at the institute

Himalayan institute of Tibetology

Prayer wheels

After sunset we again went to MG Road, hang around. We ended our last day of Gangtok by having a relaxing dinner at Hotlix in the same building as Sikkim ropeway.